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The architecture of Whithorn Priory


Whithorn's cathedral


Whithorn's cathedral is the earliest part of the monastery that you can still see.

Funded by Fergus, Lord of Galloway, it was built in the 1100s and erected on the site of the earlier church that housed Saint Ninian’s relics.
Romanesque doorway
It was built in a simple Romanesque style which was common at the time and later became the church for the priory.

Some parts of the nave belong to this earlier building.

A fragment of an earlier church can still be seen to the east of the crypt. This was found during excavations in the 1950s and may date back to the time of the Northumbrian bishops in the eighth century.


Why the cathedral is also a priory


In the late 1100s, the church authorities saw the way of life of Whithorn’s monastic community as old-fashioned and so introduced a group of Premonstratensian canons from Dryburgh Abbey in the Scottish Borders.

The Premonstratensians - known as the White Canons from the colour of their habit - settled in a new priory next to the cathedral church.

They formed the cathedral’s chapter, a body who
  • oversaw the daily management of the cathedral
  • played a role in electing new bishops and
  • acted as priests in the cathedral and nearby parishes.
The cathedral served as the priory church, while the cloister and buildings around it were attached to the north of the nave.

The priory functioned as
  • the administrative centre of the diocese and
  • the place where many of the canons lived and worked.
Their presence created an important market for food and other goods, which encouraged the growth of a local economy and the town of Whithorn itself.


Changes made to the cathedral


The eastern end of the cathedral was enlarged to accommodate all the canons and clergy in their constant round of services.

Building work probably began around 1177 and continued to the end of the century. This extension allowed for the relocation of Saint Ninian’s tomb from a church standing to the east to a crypt below the cathedral.


Changes to the priory church


There is little evidence for the form of the twelfth century cathedral, although it is thought to have been a simple cruciform structure with a short aisle-less nave.

The nave was hugely important to the townsfolk as this was given over to them as their parish church. Extension of both choir and nave took place in the following century.

Cemetery

Towards 1300, a large cemetery had been established to the south. A chapel and large crypts were added to the east end of the cathedral in about 1500 to give more space to St Ninian’s shrine.

Beneath the floor of the cathedral, the crypts were rebuilt. The old rib-vaulted chambers were replaced by the simpler barrel vaulting that remains today, although traces of the older vault can still be seen.


The priory after the Reformation


At the Reformation of 1560, most canons adopted the Protestant faith, although some continued in the Catholic tradition for a number of years.

The cathedral’s nave survived as the parish church. A new gable was built at the eastern end and a bell tower at the western end. What remained of the cathedral and priory was allowed to fall into disuse and much of its masonry was re-used in the houses of Whithorn.

The turbulent politics of the Scottish church in the 1600s were reflected in the architecture at Whithorn. When James VI introduced Protestant bishops, Whithorn’s church became a cathedral again. The two doorways in the nave’s southern wall were probably moved here at this time from elsewhere in the medieval cathedral to reintroduce some grandeur.

Other changes were made to accommodate a more Anglican style of worship:
  • an altar was established at the eastern end of the nave and
  • a step was used to create a division between areas for the congregation and the clergy.
These changes were both destroyed in the late seventeenth century when Presbyterian worship was restored.

Further changes to Whithorn


In the 1700s the western tower collapsed, demolishing part of the church. A new gable was built several metres to the east, avoiding the need to clear the site of rubble.

Today, the remains of the fallen tower still lie in a heap near the west gable, covered over by a grassy mound.

By the early 1800s, the old parish church no longer met the needs of the community. Local landowners provided a new spacious church to the north of the priory, which opened in 1823. The nave was unroofed and stripped of its fittings and became a burial place.


Preserving the priory


By the late nineteenth century, the condition of the ruins caused concern and the Third Marquess of Bute paid for repair works. He was a convert to Roman Catholicism who had an interest in the origins of Christianity in Scotland.

The priory ruins passed into the care of the state in 1908. Today, Historic Scotland actively cares for the priory, ensuring its long-term preservation for generations to come.