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A pilgrim’s journey: in Saint Ninian's presence


Praying before the relics


On entering the nave of Whithorn’s church, pilgrims would have seen one of Saint Ninian’s relics displayed on an altar near the screen separating the nave from the rest of the church.

After praying before the relics, the pilgrims would progress beyond the screen to a special relic chapel behind the high altar. This chapel would have held carvings, brightly coloured paintings and precious gifts dedicated to Ninian.

Ninian’s dry bones would have been covered using a wooden, church-shaped structure known as a chasse, which could be raised and lowered with a pulley.

Although nothing remains of the Whithorn chasse, it was probably covered in precious metals, which glittered in the candle-light.

Surrounded by the chapel’s sparkling gold and sumptuous decorations and by the heady scent of incense, the chanting of monks and the tolling of bells, this must have been a moment of solemn awe that pilgrims would treasure for the rest of their lives.

For the sick, this might have been the moment of hope - when their bodily discomforts would be healed by the power of the saint’s relics.

Pilgrims inside the relic chapel and crypt
Ilustration showing pilgrims inside the relic chapel and crypt. © Historic Scotland


PRAYING AT THE TOMB



Passing other holy altars, the pilgrims would have descended into the dark, cramped crypt to pray at the saint’s empty tomb. This was believed to be the place where Ninian’s followers had laid his body centuries earlier.

Seeing the saint’s bones and grave must have been a special moment for pilgrims.

After emerging from the crypt, some pilgrims might have returned to the shrine to pray while others would have prepared for their journey home.

Although home may have been many weary miles away, the pilgrims must have felt they had experienced something far beyond their everyday lives.